We'd agreed to check out 3 out of 4 days of the trip I'd had planned for easter, but had ditched to play dress ups! Namely, the Waikakaho Track from Linkwater on Queen Charlotte Drive to Renwick in the Wairau Valley, the Wakamarina, and the Maungatapu Track over to Nelson. Linking these rides up would be only short sealed sections, and in total, we'd have an awesome bit of mountain biking on our hands.
Things became a little tenuous in the final days on account of massive slips and flooding in Nelson, so much so that by the time we sailed for Picton, we still weren't sure about our final day. We knew enough to ditch any thought of a pass over Dun Mountain, but weren't entirely certain we'd be able to get through the Maungatapu.
Marj was pre-booked on a full Bluebridge sailing, so while we didn't get to chat on our Cook Strait crossings, I could occasionally watch her out the window.
|Marjolein rounding Point Halswell|
Both ferries were delayed slightly, so we didn't hook up in Picton until after midday, at which point we made straight for the Dutch bakery! I was hoping Marjo would bust out some Dutch, but had to make do with some recommendations of which traditional cakes to buy!!! We had a bit to eat in the garden there, before saddling up, and hitting the road.
We'd never done a trip together (let alone a ride), so it was great to get stuck into getting to know each other better. The traffic was pretty light, so we could ride two abreast for the most part, and the road bash to the Linkwater store was over before we knew it! We mixed up some sports drink, and bought an apple each, which we ate out in the sun.
|A Flux and a Stumpy. Perfect touring bikes, for this trip!|
We left the valley floor on a wide bench covered with recently cut grass. As we climbed, we both realised what a mission it would have been before the grass had been cut - the trimmings were over a foot long, and there was lots of it - and we were musing about how recently the mowers had been through. We'd settled on a few days, when we were confronted by our saviours! We'd been out by a few days, give or take an hour or two!
|Looking down to Linkwater|
The last few hundred metres of track to the ridge were in beech forest, and were unridable, so our legs got a bit of respite from the granny-gear climb, and a hammering of a new sort. Eventually though we were at the top, and after a short stop, we began picking our way across the ridge on foot.
Eventually, the ridable sections began to get longer and longer, and finally, we were able to spend reasonable periods on the bikes between dismounts. When the track finally began to drop on the Wairau side of the range, we were presented by a greasy rocky bit of singletrack! It came as a bit of a shock to my system, and I was riding very tentatively. My nerves may well have been less of an issue with slightly less pressure in my tyres and a few more recent MTB rides under my belt, and I was beginning to worry about how much walking we'd be doing!
As we descended, the track became drier, and things settled down a bit. Then, the next curveball arrived when we found ourselves at a mine shaft, and the end of the track. In hindsight, things were pretty obvious, but at the time, we thought the track continued beyond the mine. Neither of us had seen a turn off, and there was plenty of windfall around which could have been obscuring the route. We poked around for at least 10 minutes before eventually concluding we needed to turn back.
As we retraced our steps, we were both contemplating the unpleasant thought of retracing our steps. "Tyre prints" would have been appropriate, but for the majority of the last hour being on foot. After about 200m though, we were flooded with relief on meeting a switchback turn - which the out-and-back track to the mine met at its apex. We'd both been so intent on a small drop over a root in the corner, we'd overlooked the main track turning to our right. Phew! Or, more accurately, PHEW!!!!
The riding beyond this point was an absolute blast, no doubt enhanced by the sensations of relief! We made a short stop at the relics of a small settlement, which consisted of one stone chimney, and a stone throne!
There was a particular section of track I was very much looking forward to - an impressive rock bluff with cliff below it. Simon had tried to get a decent shot of me riding around it, but hadn't been pleased with his photo. When I arrived, I quickly leade the bike down and scrambled up the bank while retrieving my camera. No sooner had I turned it on, then it was time to snap Marjo making her way around it.
We didn't bother setting up for another, and continued our blast down to the valley floor! Whoop whoop!
We were soon at the end of the track, and after an occasionally boggy 4WD road, we turned right onto the Kaituna-Tuamarina Road. We had about 45 minutes to get to Renwick before the store closed, and eventually we decided I should make a dash for it. After discussing a grocery list, I was off, and enjoyed a solid TT effort into Renwick.
Supplies in hand, I was just unlocking my bike as Marjo rode in, and we walked together to Watsons Way Backpackers before washing up and getting dinner ready. We ate at a large dinner table, and had a European couple nattering away to each other while MJ and I swapped adventures from earlier in the year.
The following morning, I was stunned to learn the other couple had been Dutch, and they'd been translating Marjolein and my conversation! Little did they know, Marjolein had understood every word they'd said! RUDE!!! I wish I'd known, I would have begged Marj to bid them goodnight in Dutch.
My good friends Dave and Tim had ridden the Wakamarina a couple of months earlier, so I knew we needed to detour along to Bartlett's Creek rather than take the more direct Onamalutu Road climb up to the start of the track. The longer route was nice, and the traffic on the road dropped away significantly after the Onamalutu turnoff. We had great conditions again, and with the short sealed section out of the away, it was time to get ready for a 1000m climb!
The first 600m of it was on a gravel road, and was initially very gentle. We had a few fords to ride through, and the water passing over them was so crisp and clear. I finally made the decision to stop at the next one for a photo, when as luck would have it, the road kicked up, and we left the stream crossings behind!
The climb was sizable, but rarely steep, and it ticked away quickly enough. We stopped occasionally, and had fun trying to work out where we'd be riding. The Wakamarina track would take us across the Richmond Ranges, and the first of two high points would be Fosters Clearing, in a saddle obscured by my head in the next photo!
After admiring the view down into the Wairau Valley, in which we could just make out the Waihopai spy base, we were soon off-road, and into some glorious beech forest track.
The track was overall less steep than the gravel climb up to it had been, but it wasn't entirely straightforward riding. The surface was dry, and mostly smooth, but it was often covered with so much leaf litter that progress was hard earned. In any case, it was pretty sweet riding, and would have made for an awesome out-and-back trip.
|Are we there yet?!|
Climate control was tricky - as we climbed, the temperature was dropping slightly, and while I was sweating, I still was feeling kind of chilly. My sleeveless jacket went on and off and on and off, but eventually, we burst out of the bush into Foster's Clearing and beautiful blue skies.
From the clearing, we had a 200m vertical descent, after which the Kennett Bros said we'd be on foot. They were true to ther word, though I'm sure they should have had "grovel" somewhere in there. The 200m were hard won, and when the miserably hot push was finally at an end, Marjo and I sat for a rest in what I'm sure would make a perfectly good helipad!
The main descent was to be 800 vertical metres in about 2.5km, and conditions could not have been better for us two nanas to hit it up. The track was bone dry, remarkable given the rain Nelson had experienced not a week before.
"Switchback City Arizona" was a pretty good description of the track, and Marjo and I made a conservative but effective fist of it. We had no crashes, and a hell of a lot of fun with only a little bit of walking. There were a couple of drops I might have tried with my seat down and an ambulance on hand, but there were also a few that were well beyond my capabilities!
Before too long we were down in the valley, and the crossing of Doom Creek demonstrated the waters were just as clear on the north side of the range as on the south side. The prospect of a solid meal was about the only thing that stopped us going for a swim! Well, that and knowing how damn cold the water would have been!
|Big-ass hills in the background!|
Trout Hotel was waiting for us at the end of the road, on the intersection with SH6, and we were soon relaxing in the sun - the 75km ride had taken us just under eight and a half hours, and it was bloody nice to sit down!
As I made good headway into a pint of Radler (a fitting drop, I thought), Marjo experimented with my new tripod, not so successfully!
|It was worth a crack, Nigel!|
|Which one's next?!|
After a big meal at the pub, we went in seach of cell-phone reception. Marj had packed jandals - far too heavy - but worth their weight. My bare feet were being reamed by the road, and I made fun of myself on behalf of Marjolein, who was very gentle on me! Unlike the road surface! To add insult to injury, we didn't find any reception... Maybe I need to rethink my jandals policy?
|Ready to leave Canvastown|
After buying a couple of monstrous cheese scones from the cafe, we were about ready to leave when a ute swung in, driven by NZ MTB celebrity Brenda "Bob" Clapp. She was on a work trip out of Nelson, and we had a good natter before parting ways.
I vaguely remembered the next bit of riding from the end of Day 1 of the Kiwi Brevet, and enjoyed taking it a bit more gently. Once again, the scenery was stunning, and the waters clear.
|The Pelorus River from Maungatapu Road|
I was about to lose my GPS unit - on its single charge from home - but not before it suggested we'd missed the Maungatapu Track turn off. Luckily the map data were off, not our eyes, and just as I was beginning to worry, we were presented with conclusive evidence we were OK!
|Blinkers on, and up we go!|
The climb was stunning, and took us almost exactly an hour. As if to torture us, the day became hotter, the track steeper, and the track rougher as we neared the top. We both stayed on our bikes though, but not without physical cost!
We had plenty of time to reach Nelson to hook up with Marjolein's partner Al, so we enjoyed sitting in the sun at the top for about an hour. The views to south were partly obscured by cloud, but to the northeast they were off the hook!
Eventually, we started to cook in the sun, and made the decision to head down. It was great to be on our trail bikes once again, and we enjoyed the blast down the Maungatapu. Belying the freakish rain Nelson had had the week before, the track surface showed no sign of anything abnormal.
Near the bottom, we blasted through a rock garden I'd effectively forgotten all about. I was glad I wasn't on my lightweight rigid bike like last time. Urgh!
At the road end, a sign indicated we needed to take a singletrack section to bypass some works, a message consistent with Bob's advice. But, it was ambiguous about where the track began, so I ducked up to a caretaker's home, and was told we could actually take the road if we wanted to. When we saw the singletrack at the bottom of a fairly steep descent, we figured we'd done enough hard work, and took the cruisy option along the road.
I felt guitly as we rolled along, and occasionally glanced up at the MTB track on the hill above us, kind of wishing I was up there, but simultaneously glad I was not! Another time, perhaps!
Maitai Valley Road spat us out into the city centre, but not before we'd seen stark evidence of the storm damage. I grabbed a lock from a bike store, before settling down at a cafe, a change of clothes, and a delicious risotto for him, and a kebab for her.
Shortly after, I was wishing Marjolein farewell and a Merry Christmas, and soon after that, I was off to the airport.
The short flight back to Wellington was great apart from the fact I was looking out the left side of the plane. I knew those on the right were getting unrestricted views of three great MTB rides: the old-school Maungatapu Track, and the sublime Wakamarina and Waikakaho Tracks, complete with plenty of hike-a-bike and technical sections. Marjolein's company had been awesome, and our pace had been cruisy but deliberate. It was truly uplifting stuff, and the perfect way to bring the working year to a close.